X115^® ACE

Vitamin A (retinol) is a fat-soluble vitamin.

On the skin, retinol is transformed into retinaldehyde and retinoic acid, implementing a real cell reprogramming process involving derepression and gene repression actions, making the skin cells return to a vital phase typical of young organisms.

Retinoic acid, for example, induces the expression of two proteins in the skin (keratins) which are not normally present in adult skin: number 6 (present in tissues with high levels of proliferative activity) and number 13 (present in foetal skin), making the stratum corneum less rigid.

Topical retinol is able to stimulate the activity of fibroblasts, promoting the synthesis of collagen and elastin as well as being effective against photoageing 1, 2 . Overall, these and other biological actions help to reverse many skin alterations induced by photo-damage caused by excessive sun exposure.

It has been proven that 0.4% retinol can significantly improve the appearance of surface lines and wrinkles on the skin, at the same time as improving, also from an histological point of view, the components of the extracellular dermal matrix, such as glycosaminoglycans and type I 3-collagen.

The clinical use of retinoic acid has proven to be particularly effective in the treatment of certain conditions, such as skin ageing, pigmentation disorders and acne.

Applying high concentrations of retinol may cause slight irritation, so-called "retinoid dermatitis", which involves a slight redness of the skin and flaking, and typically appears between the second and fourth week of treatment. These effects are actually the biological indicator that the substance is having an effect and they completely regress as the skin adapts to the retinoic acid/retinol contained in the face serum.

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) is a powerful antioxidant, which protects cells from oxidation and contributes to the synthesis of collagen.

Vitamin C also helps to regenerate the reduced form of vitamin E, a powerful fat-soluble antioxidant, which plays an important role in preventing oxidative damage in the plasma membrane that encloses the cells.

Many clinical studies support the effectiveness of topical vitamin C in the prevention and treatment of skin photo-ageing. Furthermore, applying this vitamin has also proven to be useful in the treatment of chronoageing, given the protective action of L-ascorbic acid on dermal trophism and, in particular, on the collagen structure.

Topical application of vitamin C is the most effective method of increasing its presence in the skin, given that the amount taken in from our diets (from sources such as citrus fruits or green leafy vegetables) may be insufficient; at the same time, oral vitamin C supplements are not very effective in increasing the concentration of the vitamin in the skin, since its absorption is limited by active transport mechanisms in the intestine.

If exposed to heat, light and air, vitamin C becomes highly unstable and loses its active properties with regard to skin cells. Most products on the market contain L-ascorbic acid in a water-based solution which is clear and yellow in colour; such a water-based solution is not very stable, leading to degradation in just a few days and transformation into dehydroascorbic acid that is dark brown in colour.

Acidification and replacing the water with solvents such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol etc. increase the bioavailability of the formulation, but unfortunately make application more difficult; moreover, if the pH is too acidic, products become incompatible with skin application.

X115^® ACE contains an anhydrous powder of pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in the cap and a fat-soluble ester of vitamin C in the vial below. These ingredients are kept separate and are only mixed together at the time of application. It is therefore possible to use vitamin C in its purest form and benefit from a high-performance treatment.

At the same time, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate has shown excellent percutaneous absorption and effectively converts into free vitamin C in the skin, performing various physiological functions.

Together with vitamin C, vitamin E protects the skin from the action of UVA and UVB rays.

Since the development of lipid peroxidation can profoundly change cell membranes, vitamin E is recognised as playing a leading role in maintaining healthy and younger-looking skin.

If applied to the skin, vitamin E is able to slow down or restrict oxidative damage, reduce inflammation and promote cell repair mechanisms.

With regard to the skin, antioxidant action is of fundamental importance to combat premature skin ageing caused by oxidative stress, deriving from both chemical and environmental effects.

Furthermore, it is important to remember that vitamin E is able to reduce the activity of collagenases synthesized by fibroblasts. The moisturising properties of vitamin E have also been exploited to prevent and treat superficial facial wrinkles 7: by reducing Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and increasing hydration of the stratum corneum, an improvement in fine wrinkles and fine lines around the eyes can be seen.

Vitamin C has many functions as a cosmetic ingredient, including illuminating the skin, promoting collagen synthesis and inhibiting lipid peroxidation.

VC-IP (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) is a form of vitamin C that remains stable at high temperatures and dissolves well in oils.

VC-IP has excellent percutaneous absorption and effectively converts into free vitamin C in the skin, performing various physiological functions.

VC-IP has been approved as an “almost active” drug in Japan (at 3%). It is also registered in Korea as a functional ingredient to lighten the skin, at 2% concentration. X115^® ACE contains 3.8% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Sweet almond oil is obtained by cold pressing almond seeds (Prunus amygdalus). It comes in the form of a transparent liquid, which is light yellow in colour.

Chemically, it is made up of a high percentage of oleic and linoleic acid and, to a lesser extent, palmitic, stearic, lauric and myristic acid. It has remarkable emollient and nourishing qualities, as well as caring for the skin and making it more supple.

This is a safe ingredient to apply to the skin, no matter what the concentration.

Thanks to its versatility, sweet almond oil is used in various skin-care and cosmetic products, such as: massage oils for the skin of babies, children and the elderly, creams, serums and moisturising milks for sensitive, fragile and dry skin, and as an emollient and nourishing treatment after facial cleansing.

Sweet almond oil is also effective in preventing stretch marks during pregnancy and preventing nipples from cracking during breastfeeding.

When the serum is applied to the face, the diamond powder and pearl powder have a slightly abrasive (smoothing) effect, facilitating exfoliation of the surface layers of the skin, thereby stimulating their renewal.

In addition, these active ingredients have a "soft-focus" effect, able to homogeneously diffuse, reflect and modulate light, masking fine lines and skin imperfections and allowing the natural beauty of the face to shine.

Polymethyl methacrylate is a synthetic texturising agent.

Polymethyl methacrylate ensures that the serum is easy to apply to the skin, where it forms a thin and homogeneous film that facilitates the persistence of active components, thereby making the cosmetic product more effective.

It is one of the most widely used texturisers for both make-up and skin care products. It improves the spreadability of the product and has excellent oil absorption capacity, as well as a soft focus effect . The microparticles, ranging in size from 5 to 15 µm, are spherical in shape.

The finished product is dry and velvety to the touch.

Polymethyl methacrylate is used in cosmetic formulations with the aim of improving the texture of the product, increasing its smoothness and spreadability and/or reducing oiliness. It is stable in terms of heat and pH and is a safe ingredient: it does not make the skin more sensitive or irritated.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a viscous, colourless and highly hygroscopic liquid, meaning it can absorb the humidity in the air, regardless of changes in atmospheric humidity conditions. Thanks to its moisturising, lubricating and emollient properties on the skin, it is used in numerous dermo-cosmetic formulations.

Glycerin is the most widely used humectant in the field of cosmetics and is tolerated well by the skin. At low concentrations, it is useful to preserve the product from drying up, while at high dosages it performs an excellent moisturising and plasticizing action on the skin.

Sorbitol is a sugar belonging to the family of polyhydric alcohols and is contained in numerous fruits, such as apples, pears, cherries and rowanberries. It comes in the form of a white powder with various grain sizes, soluble in water and highly hygroscopic.

Sorbitol is used in cosmetics as a humectant, to stop the product from drying up, and as a moisturising agent, to prevent dry skin.